Hood Tier Gorge Loop
Stiletsi & the White Crane
Who are Stiletsi and the White Crane?
In the 1840’s, John C. Fremont undertook several exploration missions for the U.S. government. The Oregon Territory was disputed and claimed by both the United Kingdom and the U.S.A.. Just to the south, California was still a part of Mexico. Fremont’s mission was to assess the American West and determine how well it was defended by these other nations. Of course, all this land was already—and still is—Indigenous land.
Fremont relied heavily on native guides to help him through the rugged Oregon country in the winter of 1842. While The Dalles was an established European outpost, and a bustling Indigenous city for at least 9,000 years, the land to the south was unknown to European American explorers. Stiletsi and the White Crane were two native chiefs that brought Fremont through the Dufur Hill Country, Tygh Valley, and what is now the Confederated Tribes of the Warm Springs Reservation. The beginning of this bikepacking route loosely follows the Wasco and Wishram trade route that Stiletsi and the White Crane guided Fremont’s expedition along.
Read Fremont’s account of his expedition for free on Google Books. (This also includes passages from his travels along the OTT’s Fremont Tier.)
Tie the mighty Columbia River to Mt. Hood through Wasco County’s hill country and the verdant Hood River Valley along ribbons of backcountry singletrack. The mountain, the forest, the prairie, and the river all converge here, creating a varied splendor of geology, flora, fauna, and many layers of human history.
Ride along the Columbia and imagine running the Celilo rapids on a wooden raft. Wind through the undulating grain fields of Dufur, and ascend Fifteenmile Creek into scrub oak savannah. Slowly you transition into towering ponderosas as you gain elevation, then past golden larches. You’ll soon be graced with frequent looming views of Mt. Hood as you descend Surveyor’s Ridge into Parkdale and the fruit orchards of Hood River Valley. Climb once again through the forest, this time to Waucoma Ridge’s shady old growth forests and enjoy a ripping descent through the legendary Post Canyon trail system. From here it’s a relatively relaxed pedal back to The Dalles through Hood River, the Mosier Tunnels, and over Rowena Crest along the Historic Columbia River Highway.
It’s no wonder Indigenous people have settled and nurtured this land for over 9,000 years. It provides some of the richest natural resources of anywhere in the world. The Hood Tier’s Gorge segment claims some of the largest Pacific salmon runs in history, massive stands of timber, and a temperate climate for growing fruit and grain.
This Hood Tier Gorge Loop was developed with a partnership between the Oregon Timber Trail Alliance and the Mt. Hood and Columbia River Gorge Regional Tourism Alliance to provide more riders the experience of the Oregon Timber Trail’s Hood Tier through the gateway communities of Hood River, Mosier, The Dalles, Dufur, and Parkdale. It is an accessible and scenic loop of singletrack trails and quiet roads you can experience over the course of a long weekend.
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At a glance
Start/End: The Dalles, OR
Miles: 143
Elevation gain: 14,500’
Days: 4-5
Paved: 57%
Dirt road: 5%
Singletrack: 38%
Ridable: 90%
Physical difficulty: 6/10
Technical difficulty: 4/10
Season: June through October
Highest Point: 5,245’
Day by Day
Some people may attempt this route in two days but it’s not recommended; even three days can be a stretch. Take an extra day or two and give yourself some breathing room. If you plan on a four-day trip you’ll be looking at about 30-40 miles each day, with most of the trail riding on days two and four.
Embark on your journey from downtown The Dalles (Hood River also makes for a good start for the ride) and you’ll soon find yourself pedaling the tranquil paved road along Eightmile Creek surrounded by pasture. This terrain continues, interspersed with your first views of Mt. Hood in the distance as you approach the small and friendly town of Dufur. Make sure you resupply at the well-stocked market here unless you get a room at the historic Balch Hotel—it’s the last civilization until Parkdale, a world away. Beyond Dufur the road eventually turns to dirt, and then rock with some stream crossings and dispersed campsites. About 35 miles after leaving The Dalles you join the bottom of Fifteenmile Trail. There’s a great campsite about three miles up the trail next to a babbling creek and trail intersection. Enjoy the quiet and the stars peeking through the forest canopy high above your tents.
If you thought day one had too much pavement you’re in luck—your second day is almost entirely singletrack. Get an early start because the first seven miles are a hard pedal up Fifteenmile Trail. This is a unique backcountry trail that passes through some fascinating geological oddities before topping out on Eightmile Point, the highest point on your journey.
[Two bridges over Fifteenmile Creek are missing and require either wading the stream twice or following pink flagging on the north side of the stream for about a half mile. You’ll need to push your bike through this half mile stretch since construction of the new trail won’t be complete until late summer. High water may make wading the stream hazardous in early summer. The pink flagging starts about 200 feet before where the lower bridge once existed].
Here you get to soak in the views of Mt. Hood once again, and this time it’s a lot closer! You’re now in the popular 44 Trails network, so enjoy the fun, flowy trails through the beautiful larch forests making sure to fill up your water bottles in your old friend Eightmile Creek at the NF44 road crossing. This is your last water source until Parkdale, 20 miles away. Soon you’ll be descending Surveyor’s Ridge with some technical rocky sections and unparalleled views of the now-familiar Mt. Hood. If you’re riding the Ketchum Bisect, don’t miss the turn before one last steep descent down Oak Ridge Trail. Once in Parkdale you’ll find everything you need—a brewery, a BBQ joint, ice cream, a nice cafe, and some wonderful hosts at the Old Parkdale Inn who welcome bikepackers with open arms.
On the third day the route you pedal through pear, cherry, and apple orchards of the upper Hood River Valley, and then up a long climb to Whatum Lake. Here you’ll find a campground that’s popular in the summer months, but several dispersed camping opportunities lie farther along the route. If you still have some energy, push on to Rainy Lake Trailhead and campground. (Note: The trail stays outside of the Mark O. Hatfield Wilderness, but both Rainy Lake and Whatum Lake are within. Bikes aren’t allowed in Wilderness, but it’s a short stroll with your bags to claim a lakeside site)
Your final day is the longest, but you finally cash in the reward for climbing so much. There are multiple options for every skill level as you descend 4,000 feet through the Post Canyon trail network into Hood River. This route follows the multi-use Cedar Creek Trail through town (say hi, and ring your bell!) to avoid the busier trafficked roads, but there’s every sort of service you may need a short detour away. Leaving town you join the Mosier Twin Tunnels path, a converted section of the Historic Columbia River Highway. There’s a much needed coffee and food in Mosier to fuel the climb to Rowena Crest. This is a popular tourist destination, but it’s some of the prettiest ribbons of pavement you’ll find in the Pacific Northwest. The journey comes to a close following the Columbia River along a path that brings you right back to downtown The Dalles. Reward yourself with a trip to a winery or brew pub and reflect back on the varied countryside you just passed through. The shimmering fields of grain. The scraggly oaks clinging to cliffs. The bulbous boulders between towering ponderosas. Golden larches and ice cold brooks. Ridgeline trails and orchards laden with fruit. Dark mossy forests and vibrant blue lakes. And the massive cleft of the Columbia River Gorge with its immense river draining seven states and two countries.
What was it like to pass through this living landscape on horseback 150 years ago? Or on foot 9,000 years in the past?
Options
Technically you can ride this route in either direction but, in our opinion, it’s much better clockwise—you’ll descend Post Canyon but climb Fifteenmile trail. If you insist on riding counter clockwise and you should use the climbing trails in Post Canyon.
If 143 miles and all that elevation gain just seems like too much, we’ve included the Ketchum Bisect. This creates two smaller loop options: the 100 mile Hood River Valley loop (CW) and the 80 mile Hill Country loop. (CCW) This bisect is about 20 miles long and connects The Dalles to Surveyor’s Ridge via a long (mostly) gradual gravel climb.
Lesson learned: Don’t bite off more than you can chew, some miles are a lot slower than you think.
logistics
Highlights
Wasco County is known for its endless undulating hills of grain and majestic views of the Cascade volcanoes. Dufur’s historic Balch Hotel is a great pit stop in the middle of hill country.
Fifteenmile Trail is one of Mt. Hood’s premier backcountry rides. This route means you’ll be going up, not down, unfortunately, but you could always add a day and make a big loop without your bags.
The trails between Dufur and Parkdale are maintained and built by the 44 Trails Association. (named after the NF44 road). If you enjoy them, be sure to come back for a trailwork party or donate some money to the cause.
Surveyor’s Ridge Trail has unparalleled views of Mt. Hood, pack some extra snacks for all the pit stops you’ll inevitably take.
In the midsummer heat, Whatum and Rainy Lakes are both excellent swimming stops—there’s also a great swimming hole at Mosier Falls in the Gorge.
Post Canyon is a dense network of modern flow trails, jumps, and technical features for experienced riders. We’ve chosen one of the easier routes, but don’t be afraid to take a different path if that interests you. Post Canyon is built and maintained by Hood River Area Trail Stewards (HRATS), if you see them out digging make sure to thank them for their efforts.
How do I get there?
The Stiletsi and White Crane route starts and ends in The Dalles, the easternmost community of the Columbia River Gorge about an hour and a half drive from Portland. The Dalles is known for its vast network of gravel riding and year round sunshine. You can park downtown on most streets, and nearby is SPR Bicycle Shop (408 Washington St) for last minute needs. The Columbia Area Transit (CAT) bus services all the major communities in the Gorge. It’s inexpensive and convenient.
Is this route for me?
The Oregon Timber Trail is an awe-inspiring adventure, but let’s be honest—it’s long and intimidating! On average it takes thru-riders about three weeks to complete the entire journey. And its backcountry nature through a variety of rugged landscapes means there’s miles of unmaintained trails and steep hike-a-bike ascents. The Stiletsi and White Crane route, on the other hand, is for those of us who only have a long weekend to spare, and maybe not as much experience (or penance for suffering) riding a heavily loaded bike for 700 miles.
That’s not to say the trail sections are easy—some of the climbs are steep and some trail sections are rocky and technical. But those sections don’t last too long, and there’s nothing wrong with walking your bike a few hundred yards. Since the route passes through some agricultural areas, there are a few longer sections without camping opportunities or fresh water to filter. It’s not insurmountable, because there are hotels and a few markets along the way. It just takes a little extra planning to link it all together. The Ketchum Bisect is a great way to split the route in half and savor the Stiletsi and White Crane route over two trips.
What bike should I ride?
We recommend a hardtail or rigid mountain bike with a minimum of two-inch wide tires. As you can see in the photo gallery, we rode a variety of bicycle types. This is fine for experienced riders, but we certainly recommend the above because it’ll be more fun. More than a third of the route is singletrack, and some of it is technical. There’s also a lot of pavement riding so a full suspension bike may be overkill unless you’re comfortable riding it long distances. This route is also quite remote so the most important thing is that your bike is in good working order and it’s comfortable for you. You don’t want your body or your steed to break down and leave you stranded.
Navigation
Navigating your way through remote and frequently unsigned roads and trails is often the most challenging part of bikepacking. The Ride With GPS Ambassador Route map shown here is accurate and the best way to navigate this route. Download the Ride With GPS app on your phone and learn how to save routes for use without a cell signal. You can also export the GPS file to another device from the Ride With GPS website. Always carry a paper map in case your electronics fail. Paper trail maps are available from the Mt. Hood National Forest offices in Parkdale or Dufur and the National Geographic Trails Illustrated maps #820 & #821 also covers most of this region.
Did we mention there’s no cell service for some of the route? You won’t be able to text your friend to pick you up, check Google maps, or even post on Instagram! Make sure you are confident in your navigation skills before venturing out.
Camping
There are several developed campgrounds along the route. Dispersed camping is also permitted in most places in the Mt. Hood National Forest, which you enter at mile 36 and leave as you enter Parkdale at mile 64. The Waucoma Ridge section also allows dispersed camping from mile 83 to mile 100. From that point 43 miles back to The Dalles, there are no legal camping options. You’ll find plenty of hotels in Hood River and The Dalles. The Tollgate County Campground a few miles east of Parkdale is a pleasant place to camp.
Water
Finding fresh water to filter is a little tricky in some sections of this route so make sure you’re carrying enough. A water filter or other purification method is a necessity—potable water is even more scarce. The best water sources are noted on the map: Dufur, upper Fifteenmile Creek, Eightmile Creek, Parkdale, Whatum & Rainy Lake, and at markets in Hood River and Mosier. The mostly dry legs you need to watch out for are: mile 0-24, mile 24-40, mile 49-67, and mile 94-115.
Be considerate
While we’ve gone to lengths to choose low-traffic roads and rarely traveled areas, you also pass through active agricultural fields. Stay alert, because farm equipment can take up more than their lane and the drivers may not be expecting bicyclists on the backroads. Ride single file on roads and yield to other users along the trail. You’ll be surprised by who you’ll meet and what you’ll learn with a friendly ‘Hello.’ Practice the Leave no Trace principles and tread lightly where you ride and camp.
Wait, what is bikepacking?
Simply, bikepacking is just backpacking with a bicycle. Many choose to do it on paved or dirt roads, while others prefer singletrack mountain bike trails. The Oregon Timber Trail focuses on the latter, and this route highlights several of the most exemplary trail sections on the whole OTT. Bikepackers ride all types of bicycles depending on the terrain, and strap their camping gear to their bikes with a variety of specialized bags.
Video recaps
Check out Dustin Klein’s video recaps on YouTube and don’t forget to subscribe to his channel.
Day one of three on the Gorge Loop
Do:
Share the Road—local residents are making their living in many of the areas you pass through. Give them space and a friendly wave.
Smile and say hi—you’ll likely run into ranchers, hikers, campers, equestrians, families, offroaders, and probably a bunch of other mountain bikers.
Visit Freebridge or Sedition Brewing for an after ride celebration.
Carry and use sunscreen—there’s a lot of exposed sections along the route
Check out the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center & Museum, it has a wealth of information about the area’s ecology and local history.
Don’t:
Underestimate the wind—Wasco County can be unrelenting in the first quarter of the route. Winds are usually quieter in the early morning or evening.
Get too ambitious, the 25 miles of day two will probably take you most of the daylight hours.
Ignore ‘trail closed’ signs—in the Post Canyon section there are frequent trail closures. Check Trailforks or contact Hood River Area Trail Stewards (HRATS) for the latest info.
Resources
Columbia Area Transit
(541) 386-4202
Mt. Hood National Forest - Hood River Ranger District
(541) 352-6002
SPR Bicycle Shop
(541) 980-8418
Historic Balch Hotel
(541) 467-2277
Old Parkdale Inn
(541) 352-5551
Mountain View Cycles
(541) 386-2453
The Dalles Area Chamber of Commerce
(541) 296-2231
Cousins' Country Inn
(541) 298-5161
If you pick your campsites wisely you’ll never want to leave.